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Fanstat (Radiator Fan Thermostatic Switch)

Option 1

ECHLIN FS130, about $28 from NAPA. Turns on at 191-197F (ascending) and off at 182-187F (descending). The element is about 1/2" longer than the Honda one, but it screws right in and it has the two bayonet connectors found on early V4's.

This switch may have been discontinued as none of the dealers I called on June 12, 2008 had it available.

Option 2

Brand name: GP Sorenson

Part Number: 40-5001

Price: $14.99 (Advance Auto Parts- prices may vary from state to state.)

Thread pitch: M16 X 1.5

Normally open

Closes at 189 to 199 degrees F

Opens at 181 to 171 degrees F

This switch is the direct equivalant to the NAPA #FS130

This switch fits many Honda car applications, 1975-1991 Honda Civic All 3 door(hatchback) and CRX models, also 1986-1991 Acura Integra, all engine sizes.

This switch may also have been discontinued as none of the dealers I called on June 12, 2008 had it available.

Option 3 Jim Mc Adams

Not being able to find 1 or 2, I found this referenced on some other site and was able to buy locally.

Brand name: Wells

Part Number: SW504

Price: $15.99 (Auto Zone in NE Ohio)

Thread pitch: M16 X 1.5

Normally open

Closes at 92 C ( 180 degrees F)

Opens at 87 C (171 degrees F)

As in option Pedro, it is a Honda cage part but available new. It is physically larger but fits without issue. It has both terminals on round pins so you will have to change the connectors. I wired it direct without relay and it works fine.

Option Pedro

One list member reports using a fanstat from a salvaged '84 Honda Accord, and the wiring connector for it. It was stamped "92' 87'", which probably indicates that it should turn on at 92C and off at 87C. When tested, this was pretty close. The Accord fanstat runs two fans through a relay, so you also need to get the relay out of the fuse box, just behind the battery on the right fender. It is marked "Fan" on the cover. While you're there, look around the engine compartment for a connector (with all four terminals in it---sometimes they use a 4 wire connector with only 2 or 3 wires) that fits onto the relay, and cut it out of the harness with about 6" tails to work with. The bike's wiring for the fan looks like this:

It needs to be made into this:

[Dear God! Someone draw a real picture!]

Proceed as follows:

Remove both steering head covers and the left covers of the radiator. Trace the wiring to the fan, which has a connector behind the steering head cover, and the fanstat. Remove the looming from the fanstat wiring where it goes across the frame, and from the wiring between the fuse and wiring harness. Cut the black/blue wire between the fuse and the fan connector. Strip both ends and install female blade connectors on both, with a 3" piece of stranded wire siamesed in with the one from the fuse. Put a connector on the end of the 3" piece as well. The two connectors are #s 1 and 2 above, while the connector on the end toward the plug is # 3. Cut the black wire from the fan connector and "leech" it onto the green wire from the fanstat, either by soldering or with a self stripping wire connector--connection 4. Cut the black wire from the fan stat and install another female wire connector on it--connection 5. The relay will be marked with symbols like this: -|/|- for the coil, terminations 2 and 5, and something like this: -o/o- , which are the relay contacts, #s 3 and 4. If you find a 3 terminal relay, the connection between 1 and 2 is internal, and you will not need the siamesed wire. Other relays may have 4 or 5 terminals, but 2 of them may be marked "NO" and "NC". Use the "NO" contact as # 4, and insulate the "NC" contact, as it will be hot when the fan stat is open (cold).