- Loosen the connector bands very loose. The boots will expand as they are slid into position.
- Coat the insides of the connectors, the outside of the carbs, and the motor intakes lightly with silicone grease (dielectric or Silglyde works well).
- Slide the carbs partway in from the left (or partly in the top for Interceptor) and reconnect the throttle and choke cables.
- Place the carbs so that the front carbs rest centered on their connectors, in position to slide together.
- Place the rear carb connectors at an angle between the carbs and intakes so the connectors overlap the top of the intakes and the bottom of the carbs.
- Press the carbs into their connectors. Sometimes a rocking motion front-back-left-right helps seat the carbs.
- If necessary, use a long screwdriver between the carbs and frame; take it easy and protect the airbox rim with a shim of wood or cardboard. The rear carbs now line up with their connectors and can be similarly pushed into place.
- If tucked under, a small, dull screwdriver may be used to help push the lip of the connector over the carb/intake. Careful not to cut the connector.
- Some report finding this easier in rear-front order instead of front-rear.
- Tighten the connector bands and adjust the throttle and choke cables.
- Watch the airbox gasket when you're reinstalling the top.
If the connectors are old and hard, the carbs may be hard to R&R. Consider replacing them; they are about $10 each list.